Barcelona

Road Trip: Barcelona to Florence, Part I

Twelve days and almost 2500km later, I have arrived back in Florence. I’m in the lounge at the top of the Hilton Metropole, feet up, looking out the window towards the Duomo where the last of the daylight is hitting it’s western side. As I watch, a little parakeet jumps out of the bushes and looks around nervously.

I have just completed a road trip from Barcelona to Florence, with sidetrips to Lake Como and Rome, in my old 1999 Peugot 106. I’ve driven for probably 40 hours in the course of this adventure. Quite a feat.

How do I feel? Relaxed. Tired. Accomplished. And…a bit lonely.

I’ve spent the last eight days with one of my good friends from high school. Her flight from Rome to home was early this morning. Almost immediately upon returning to the hotel, I could feel a hole where she had been. It is difficult to spend so much time with someone you know well and then return to your normal existence. It is the same feeling I have everytime a water polo tournament ends.

Yesterday, my friend and I took the A1 from Florence to Rome. While it spends a lot of time in the valley, it closes down to a two lane road and winds through the hills right before it drops down into Rome.

Throughout this road trip, I didn’t feel comfortable driving my car more than 100 km/hr. The speed limit on the Autostrade in Italy? 130 km/hr. It isn’t so bad when you are driving in the valleys, where the cars are spread out and there are often three lanes, but in that last leg to Rome? Not so fun.

There are always semis, but in that section they tend to pile up. They don’t go much faster than I am comfortable going, so it is easy to cruise behind them, or pass them when they are going a bit slower than I want to go. This easily allows everyone else to pass us on the left.

In the hills, though, I couldn’t easily pass the trucks. Not only was it difficult for my car to speed up around them going uphill, in the left lane there was an almost never-ending line of cars speeding past us. Getting in front of an Italian driver who wants to go much faster than you is never a good idea.

The turns are tight and the barricades tall. Semis in front and in back of you and cars wizzing by the left. Passing us were Audi after Audi, the Alfa-Romeo Giulietta (the only Alfa-Romeo we saw), and many other cars (VWs, Fiats, Range Rovers, Citroens), but none nearly as old as my car. It’s as if I shouldn’t have been allowed to drive there. Next time, however, I’ll be in an Audi or a Mercedes or even a Lambourghini, and I’ll get to experience the fun of driving in the midst of all that confinement.

On the way back

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Fricandó

Here is a the recipe for a dish I recently learned to make. This recipe comes from a book of twenty recipes in Catalan that my friend received when he took a cooking class in Barcelona. This is one of his favorite dishes, and I helped him make it for his wife (I got to eat some too of course!). With the two of us, it took two hours. It is similar to what we call “Fricassee” in English.

FRICANDÓ

(This is an ancient French dish that is also popular in Catalonia).

Ingredients

600 g veal (or pork), thinly sliced

200 g onions, diced

200 g ripe tomatoes, grated

20 g Scotch Bonnet mushrooms, dried (“marasmius oreades”)

50 cc “vino rancio” (a sweet, old wine)*

2 or 3 artichoke hearts

1 lemon

Ingredients for the sauce

2 cloves of garlic

20 g toasted almonds

Parsley

..===oOo===..

Salt the meat and flour it, and then fry it in a pan with olive oil until brown.

In a pot, using the leftover oil, fry the onions. When the onions begin to brown, add the wine. Add the tomato three minutes later. Let this cook for 10 minutes. Be careful that the tomato doesn’t stick; if it does, add a bit of water.

Place the mushrooms with water in another pot. When the water is boiling, turn off the heat. Strain the mushrooms and add them to the onion and tomato. Stir occasionally for 3 minutes.

Add the meat. Then pour the water leftover from the mushrooms into the pot until the meat is covered. Cook covered for 30 minutes on low heat.

Clean the artichokes and cut them in four or six pieces. Rub them with lemon to avoid discoloration. Boil them, drain the water, and then bread and fry them.

Grind the garlic, almond, and  parsley in a mortar. Five minutes before the end, add this and the artichokes to the pot.

I hope you like it!

*Vino Rancio is a wine typical of Catalunya. Here is a decent discussion of what this wine is. They say that Vino Rancio is “a style of wine made by purposefully oxidizing or maderizing it by placing small barrels of wine in the hot summer sun. This procedure gives the wine a tawny color and a rich, unique flavor. Rancio wines are usually either naturally very high in alcohol or fortified. The results are similar to madeira, tawny port, or marsala.”

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Sant Martí to Poble Nou II

This is a continuation of this post.

I was biking from the district of Sant Martí, where I am staying, to the Rambla of Poble Nou.

Before crossing Av. Diagonal, there is the the Parc del Centre del Poblenou. I’ve driven by it numerous times on my way to visit my friends, but I had never had the chance to enter until now. There are three different sections separated by roads. I first entered the eastern-most park. This one is the smallest of the three, and feels much more enclosed and separated from the rest of the world. The middle is full of trees that have small, hard, black and red berries. It was only after an older man with a dog came up to me to tell me about the trees that I found out they are actually a form of pepper. I appreciated the information, although it is always uncomfortable when a stranger approaches you in such a solitary place as this.

Along with the trees, there were installations of the artistic kind, and chairs which were also designed with art in mind.

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Sant Martí to Poblenou I

This post touches on two of my favorite things about Barcelona. I love that design is incorporated into every aspect of the city, and I am also enchanted by all of the old, abandoned, leftover buildings that can be found around the city. There is a distinctive mix of old and new.

I took a bike ride from the apartment to the Rambla of Poblenou, to a great new coffee shop, called Papas and the Mamas, which opened in November. I was introduced to the cafe/restaurant through my friend, who had planned to host her daughter’s birthday party there. The cafe is light, airy, and new, serves organic food, and has free wifi (which is the most important part, of course!). During the day, it is a quiet place to relax, but in the evenings it becomes a lively place full of parents and their children, as the location was designed with children in mind.

Poblenou (Pueblo Nuevo in Spanish, or “New Town” in English [real clever!])  is a district of Barcelona that has only started to be redeveloped in the past 20 years, starting when the Vila Olimpica was redone for the ’92 Olympics. (You can look at plans here.) It is an up and coming part of the city, filled with young people, artists, and the like. It is located near the beach, and the streets are wide allowing easy bike access. There are still factories and other brick industrial buildings, but if you move a block or two in one direction or another, you will encounter new residential developments. Here is the most fascinating mix of old and new in Barcelona.

The beginning of my bike ride was through a section of old apartment complexes and empty lots.

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This is the frontage of some old houses, which have now been destroyed. The windows and doors have been bricked up, and are now used as a wall to enclose the empty land behind it.

A few blocks later, there is a burnt-out building. I had been told that it had caught fire and that some homeless people who had been living there died. However, upon further research, we could not find the relevant news, although we did read about other fatal fires in the area. It is not unusual to find people squatting in empty buildings in this part of the city. But it is here that the balance is even, and neither the new residents nor the squatters are most prevalent element. Poble Nou is still in a state of flux.

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A block away from this building, is the start of a fantastic park next to Avinguda Diagonal, the main road that runs across the city diagonally (oddly enough). From here, you can see the shell of a new building near the Rambla.

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In the photo above, the bushes that you see are walls of various parks. I’ll cover that in the next post.

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Photography and Prostitutes (but not photography of prostitutes)

Along the Carretera de Collblanc, in an area of L’Hospitalet not too far from Camp Nou, lies both an electrical substation and abandoned land with buildings. There is nowhere to park along the Carretera, but running almost parallel to it is Avinguda d’Manuel Azaña. This road has construction and empty land and is therefore used for the ever-elusive parking. I became acquainted with it not because I was searching for parking, but because I was searching for new and faster ways to get home. In the daytime this road is harmless. At night, it is a place where prostitutes solicit their wares. (It doesn’t seem the place for your higher-end prostitute. Too dark.)

My main goal was to take a photo of this building, from Carretera de Collblanc, but my parking spot on Av d’Manuel Azaña allowed me to get a view of the other side.

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There’s a hole in the fence on this side that allows you to take a well-worn path down to some make-shift parking off of Collblanc.

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Having taken the shortcut, I was then able to snap a photo of the original side that had sparked my interest.

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And take a shot of the impressive gate.

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Down the road is this building:

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Continue reading

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Avinguda d’Albert Bastardas

Yesterday’s adventure took me to some of my old haunts. I went looking to take pictures of things I had seen in my commute but had never taken the time to come back to when I could actually stop for the photos.

 

Last year, on my drive home from practice, I often took a road running behind the Real Polo Club de Barcelona. It was appealing for both it’s lack of stoplights and for its interesting scenery:

 

Aigües de Barcelona is the company in charge of water distribution in Barcelona and other nearby municipalities. In the background you can see the Hotel Rey Juan Carlos, where the visiting footballers stay.

Aigües de Barcelona is the company in charge of water distribution in Barcelona and other nearby municipalities. In the background you can see the Hotel Rey Juan Carlos, where the visiting footballers stay.

This road continues and runs below the Carretera de Collblanc, where you can pass through a tunnel made of stone but now mostly covered in modern metal and concrete.

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Old bridge/new bridge

On the way down to the bridge, after the Aigües, is a volleyball court, here used to play a football-volleyball hybrid.

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Futvolei

And from below, you can see some of the new construction along the Carretera de Collblanc:

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Spikes

 

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Language Learning: Part I

Native Spanish speakers who are learning English often have problems with the different pronunciations of these words. They can be confused in both listening and speaking. However, some are likely to cause a bigger problem than others. I’ve tried to reassure my friends that, as they already have a bit of an accent, we will understand what they mean to say.

A Short List:

  • Kitchen and Chicken
  • Sheet and Shit
  • Beach and Bitch
  • Wander and Wonder
  • Bear, Bird, Beer, and Beard.
    • This one even has a game associated with it. Each word has a corresponding hand motion. The speaker has to match the name with his or her partner’s hand motion. The one for Bear is as if you had a bear paw and were batting something. The one for Bird is as if you were flying. The one for Beer is as if you were drinking a beer. And the one for Beard is as if you are stroking your beard. Try it yourself!
  • When –ed is at the end of words, it is sometimes pronounced as with the e as its own syllable when we would drop it and directly say the d.
  • I’ve also noticed confusion in the meanings of the words earn and win. In Spanish, they are both ganar. Sometimes those learning English will say, “How much money do you win (at your job)?”
  • Another common problem is using the word to make for situations that need to do or to have. In Spanish, the verb is often just hacer, which translates as to make. Some common sentences are, “Let’s make a party!” or “Let’s make yoga!”
    (The correct version being, “Let’s have a party!” and “Let’s do yoga!”)
    The worst part about this one is that sometimes I catch myself saying it the wrong way too because I’m trying to match the speaker’s level of English!
Categories: Barcelona, Language | 1 Comment

Some Differences Between Spain and the US: Part I

Communication/Media

In Spain:

  • Facebook is used more often to communicate with friends
  • This is probably due to the fact that unlimited texts plans are not common
  • People use many more !!!! and ??? when texting or writing on Facebook walls
  • Cell phone companies do not give upgrades every two years or with the signing of a new contact. Buying a new phone is a big deal
  • I usually get news headlines through Facebook’s news feed and my friend’s statuses. Such things as, finding out if the Chargers won, what celebrity has died recently, what the weather is like, etc.
  • News about celebrities is much less prevalent. I usually have no idea what is happening, unlike the US where I am inundated with information
  • The best time to talk to people at home is later in the evening, which can lead to very late nights
  • There are many locutorios where you can use the Internet, or make cheap international phone calls
  • Magazines are bought from newsstands, which are green and very easy to find
  • Movies, unless they are a blockbuster like Harry Potter, come out a few months later
  • There are many more films from other European countries
  • Films can be VOS (original language) or dubbed in Spanish
  • English books are not easily available and they are very expensive. They are bought from England (priced in the pound) then transferred to Europe and priced in the Euro, which increases the price. Then the Euro must be converted into dollars and the price is increased again. A Kindle comes in handy!
  • In order to exchange money through banks, checks are not written. You give the person your complete bank account number and the money is taken out or transferred in
  • It is necessary to carry change, as the 1 and 2 Euro coins are used often

Look for future editions on grocery shopping, my apartment, training and more.

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A Mystery Solved

I was driving to practice a few weeks ago and heard this song. I found it intriguing, as the girl kept repeating, spoken-word style, ‘What the Fuck.’ Curiously, it was uncensored, which maybe isn’t that unusual outside of the US. My interest was piqued when she started talking about being in Spain and partying, etc. This girl was explaining part of my life here! I didn’t think to Shazam it (and likely my phone was in the trunk anyway). All I could remember is that she said, ‘what the fuck,’ and talked about Spain. So I tried to find it on google. But of all the lines of a song to remember when you don’t know it’s title, I think ‘What the Fuck’ might only be behind ‘I Love You’ as the worst lyric of all time.

I don’t know how I finally accomplished it. (Well, I do. A youtube search of “what the fuck,” Spain, song, party). Still, not an easy mystery to solve.

Check out why this song caught my attention:

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Another Taste of Spanish Culture

The common perception of European music by Americans is that it is some sort of bad techno/house music. However, a lot of the songs are American imports, though not often the heavy-duty rap. The rest are from England or a variety of other European countries (i.e. David Guetta from France). In fact, I actually quite enjoy the “Euro” music when I am over here. It is danceable, but doesn’t feel like it requires full-on dirty hip-hop dancing. The same songs are repeated here ad nauseum, just as in the United States, yet somehow it takes songs even longer here to be pulled from the rotation. For example: The Black Eyed Peas’ I’ve Gotta a Feeling still draws cheers whenever it comes on in a club. (Why? I don’t know). The radio station in Barcelona dedicated to this music is RadioFlaixbac (pronounced Radio Flash Back). Among the people I know, this is the most popular radio station. You can check the top 30 songs on the website (careful: it’s in Catalan!).

For your listening/viewing pleasure, here are two more recent Euro songs that are popular right now:

Mr. Saxobeat by Alexandra Stan

 

 Hello by Martin Solveig and Dragonette

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