“Enhancement” project using Photoshop for my photography class. This is the castle of Volterra, Italy, which is actually currently a prison. I visited in November 2013. My friend wanted to see it due to the town’s relation to the Twilight novels.
Photography
Volterra Prison with Moon
Maison Carrée, Nîmes, France
In Nimes, we first visited the Roman arena. After, we wandered through some small streets on our way to the only completely preserved Roman temple, the Maison Carrée. We came upon it almost by surprise, as the small streets opened into a wide Plaza with the temple planted in the middle of it. We made a circle around the temple, and my friend pointed out details I might otherwise not have noticed not having been a classics major. We entered the temple, but I was disappointed to find that you couldn’t actually see any of the inside. It had been turned into a theater where they present a 3D video of the history of the area. 3D is difficult for me to watch, and being in the darkened theater only made me sleepy as I was tired from driving and our late arrival/early rising. The part I enjoyed most of the video was that we could see what the temple would have looked like on the inside had we visited in the past.
(The last photo of the series was suggested by my friend. My photo project was juxtaposition of man and nature, but she pointed out the great juxtaposition of old and new of the two buildings.)
- First view of the Temple
- Fisheye of the front
- Ceiling of the entrance
- Front right corner of the temple
- Lion’s head detail
- Rear columns
Pools: Riviera Ligure
This is the first post in a planned series. I’ve tried to take pictures of every pool I have played in in Europe. Most recently I traveled with the team in Florence, N.G.M. Firenze, to Rapallo on the Ligurian coast (south of Genova). There we played two games, the first against Plebiscito Padova and the second against ASD Rapallo. Although Rapallo has many players from the Italian national team and won the league last year, we played better against them. It is possible that we were finally warm, and/or it was because they were missing their starting goalie.
- Rapallo’s outdoor pool, with rain
- Rapallo’s indoor pool where we played
As for the other pools, in 2009 I helped coach/tagged along on on a high school boys’ water polo trip, where we played at Camogli. At that time Rari Nantes Camogli was in the A2 division and was coached by Ricardo Azevedo. We also visited the pool at Recco, which is home to one of the best men’s team ever, Pro Recco. They have won the Italian League twenty seven times and the LEN cup seven. On our way to Florence, we hiked the first part of Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza. In Vernazza, we played an informal game against their local club in the waters of the harbor.
- Camogli A2 Semi 2009
- Camogli
- Pro Recco Pallanuoto
- Overlooking the city of Recco and the pool
- Recco’s stands and status of championships in 2009
- Recco’s pool looking towards the water
- Looking down to Vernazza
- The make-shift pool in Vernazza’s harbor
Later in 2009, I spent a week in Nervi (ASD Sportiva Nervi) training with their team. At that time they were coached by Massimiliano Ferretti, who won a gold medal in the ’92 Olympics in Barcelona. Last year I traveled to Bogliasco to tryout with Rari Nantes Bogliasco.
- Nervi’s Pool
- Nervi with pool just above the water
- A poor shot of Bogliasco’s pool
There are, of course, other pools and teams in the area. These include Savona, Sori, and Imperia. Always more places to go and pools to play in!
Incisa in Val D’Arno: Part VI, Excursion to Arezzo
After riding on Sunday (read about it here), I needed something to eat. As it was Sunday, the only supermarket open was the huge Coop, and it had already closed. I decided to drive around and see what else was available. I ended up deciding to continue all the way to Arezzo. Now, I studied abroad in Florence for a month in 2007, and I took a few trips outside the city one weekend. Two friends and I went to two smaller towns on Saturday and two more on Sunday. I could tell you three of the four towns we went to (Pistoia, Cortona, Lucca) and could remember two well enough (Lucca because I went a second time two years later and Pistoia for god knows what reason). But I couldn’t say which of the other memories I had was of Cortona, or even what city the last memory was of.
Well, I quickly found out that the last city I had visited was Arezzo. So, here I was again, this time arriving by car.
The last time I had been to Arezzo I was taking a black and white film photography class. I had gone on a trip to Barcelona and lost my digital camera on the way back (losing, in the process, photos of a double rainbow over the Ponte Vecchio. Oh the agony!). Because of this, all the photos I took during these trips were on film in black and white. I was also doing everything on manual. Unfortunately, most of my photos did not turn out well. Of course, I felt that my photography skills must have been seriously lacking. Only later did I find out my lens was broken…
It was my lucky day! To arrive in a city I had been to before but this time armed with a much better camera and improved photography skills.
Salamanca
We took two trips to Salamanca, one on Holy Thursday and the other on the Tuesday after Easter. The first trip was to visit the various sites. We were taken by Isa’s father, Don Mariano, because he had studied Law there and could show us the city. Of course, the city that he knew is not the same. The “hot spots” and places to be have changed multiple times over the years. One exception, at least, is Mesón Cervantes where Mariano took us for lunch. The second time only Isa and I went. We wanted to do some shopping as the stores had all been closed the last time. Isa took me to La Sureña, which is a bar favored by students in Madrid because of its cheap tapas and beer.
Salamanca is a “college town” with the oldest University in Spain. Many Spaniards and foreigners come to Salamanca to study, and therefore there is always something do and somewhere to go even though it is a small town. Many famous people have lived there, including Nebrija, who wrote the first Spanish grammar book; Christopher Columbus, while he was planning his trip to America; Fray Luis de Leon, who translated the Bible into Castellano; and Miguel de Cervantes, who studied in the University. Too, many famous Spanish novels have been set in the city, including La Celestina, written by Fernando de Rojas in 1499. The story tells of Calisto and Melibea, whose courtly love affair goes wrong due to the machinations of the matchmaker Celestina. Don Mariano took us to El Patio de Calisto y Melibea. This is the actual garden where the two lovers meet in the novel. It is still a garden for lovers, who come to be together, write love notes on the walls, and fasten locks to the well to symbolize the “foreverness” of their love.
On the back side of the University is a facade that is very elaborately carved. Somewhere on the wall is a frog sitting on a skull. The legend is that if you find the frog, you will graduate.
Que dice: La leyenda que si encontrabas la rana, aprobarias la carrera.
Isa showed me where the frog was. I guess I’m not going to graduate!
On our second pass through Salamanca, I drove Isa’s car there and back. Don Mariano had to work and we wanted to get out of Zamora and the house since we had been inside way too much due to rain. We made some purchases, including earrings typical of Salamanca and a book of practice exams for the B2 level for me (Isa is going to be my tutor), and we each bought some clothing at Bimba & Lola, another successful Spanish brand of clothing (the others being Zara, Custo, Desigual, etc). Isa needs to open a Bimba & Lola store in Los Angeles and share the wealth with the Americans!
I also bought a replica sword of Carlos V, and everyone, including the people at DHL where I had to send it, thought that this was amusing. Most people leave Salamanca with a t-shirt from the University, or some sort of souvenir of a frog, but I preferred the sword. It is a two-handed broadsword and has the crests of the kingdoms Charles ruled (Tirol, Flanders, Bravante, Borcoña, Austria, Aragon/Sicily, Castilla/Leon/Granada) etched on the blade. Carlos V, King of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor, ruled from 1500-1558. (Here is a similar sword, but much much more expensive.)
Cofradía del Silencio
This procession was the one that I was able to best document photographically, so it was fortunate that this procession even happened. It had been raining when Isa and I went for a walk along the other side of the River Duero at about six and we feared that the rain wasn’t going to stop before the procession started at half past eight.
I had to attend this Cofradía (also called Real Hermandad del Santísimo Cristo de las Injurias) by myself because Isa had an appointment with the dentist. The most important part of this procession happens in the beginning at the Plaza de la Cathedral. Therefore, it was important that I arrived in advance. The only real way to take good photos is to be in the first row, so I arrived an hour before the procession was set to start.
Already, most parts of the plaza were filled 2-3 people deep. I spotted one strip along a wall where it seemed I could potentially get into the front. Here, where there wasn’t much space between the yellow fences and the wall, people were standing against the wall in a single row instead of being pushed up against the fence. There was still some space available, as long as someone was willing to slide over for you.
I made my way in to where there was the biggest space. I smiled at my neighbor who smiled back, but who then had me move to his other side because “it would be better.” Probably better for him as I might have blocked a bit of his view. He was between me and the archway where the procession would enter. On my other (left) side, were two older women sitting on portable chairs. We stood against the wall, occasionally watching the preparations, until a wave of people came to join us in this area. It was now important that we stand against the fence to save our spots.
I watched as they moved the incensarios (censers) from the church to the staging ground. I saw some cofrades putting on their caperuzos. As darkness finally settled over the plaza, the last of the cofrades exited through the archway to my right.
- Large censers
- Putting on the caperuzos
Cristo de la Buena Muerte
The Second Procession
After the first procession I saw, Isabel and I headed for a quick dinner with her friends. We went to a bar where we ate a bunch of tapas, and only paid five euro each person. The next procession was due to begin at 12:00 midnight, and only one of Isa’s friends was strong enough to brave it with us. This procession was to end at the Plaza de Santa Lucía, where the brothers would then sing. This is one of Isa’s favorite processions, and so far it has been my favorite as well.
We arrived a little bit after 11, and already the standing room in the plaza was becoming full. A few feet was left between some plastic yellow fences and the walls, leaving the rest of the space open for the procession. Even at 11, we were lucky to find a spot in the front line. We made our own line across the opening of a street. It turned out to be the best possible place to watch the entrance of the procession.
Hermandad Penitencial del Santísimo Cristo de la Buena Muerte
We knew we had a long, cold wait ahead of us, and had prepared by buying pipas (unshelled sunflower seeds) to snack on. It is a traditional way to pass the time while waiting during Semana Santa. The procession finally reached us at 1 am. With silence from the crowd, each brother entered quietly with his head down, wearing tan robes and sandals, and carrying a large candle. Some of the men walked barefoot, whereas those who carried Jesus wore black leather loafers or boots. Four or five photographers ran and crouched in front of us to photograph the procession as it ambled toward the plaza. All but one was shooed away to make space for their entrance, and he was the one who shot me a look of sympathy when the battery in my camera died. The entrance of the procession had just arrived and the singing had not yet begun! Such was my luck!
(Earlier in the night I had seen that I had three out of four bars of battery, and it was not until my camera did the same thing a few nights later that I realized my battery might not have been dead after all. If I had fiddled with it a bit more, I might have been able to bring it back to life.)
The brothers carried in a image of Jesus on the cross, tilted at about a thirty degree angle. It was made in 1585 and is attributed to Ruiz de Zumeta. While the other cofrades lined the plaza, the men carried Jesus to the center, where fifteen men began to sing their haunting song, “Jerusalem, Jerusalem.” (You can see a youtube video here). When the finished, a torrent of black-clothed photographers was unleashed to move about the plaza. The brothers then continued with another song, and then sang as the entire procession left the plaza.
It was late, it was cold, but it sure was worth it!
- Waiting for Cristo de la Buena Muerte
- The first arrivals of the Hermandad Penitencial del Santísimo Cristo de la Buena Muerte
- Dos Cofrades
- iPhone Image: The entrance of Jesus
- iPhone Image: The entrance of Christ
- iPhone Image: Jesus Cristo
- iPhone Image: Cross-bearer
Links:
Semana Santa in Zamora: The First Procession
Introduction
I was invited by my friend Isabel to visit her in her hometown of Zamora for Semana Santa (Holy Week). Zamora, in Castilla y Leon, along with Seville and Málaga in Andalusia, are the towns most famous for their celebrations during this week. In Zamora, there are seventeen processions, beginning with the first one of this year on Thursday, March 21st at 20.00 and ending with the last one at 9.00 on Easter Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección), March 21st. There are two to three processions per day, and each one is enacted by a different Cofradía (brotherhood or guild) and takes a different route through the city. The earliest of these Cofradías (San Cipriano) was founded in the fifteenth century.
These processions are attended by masses of people lining the streets along the route and are covered extensively on TV. Thousands of people come to Zamora just for Semana Santa. I have heard both Isabel and her friends say that this is their favorite week of the year here in Zamora, as many of their friends come home and everyone parties during the entire week.
The processions usually consist of the cofradías wearing their respective capirotes (hoods) and tunicas, musicians, standard bearers, and of course the “floats” themselves, called pasos procesionales, which are actually carried on the shoulders of the costaleros.
While these outfits look like something from the KKK to anyone growing up in the US, they are nothing of the sort here. The cofrades were originally worn while doing penitence to hide the faces of those who survived the Black Death. Here the hoods are linked to devotion, service, and thanks to God.
When not in use, most of the pasos are stored in the Museo de la Semana Santa.
Jesús en su Tercera Caída
The first procession, Hermandad de Jesús en su Tercera Caída, began at 8:30 on Monday. Isa and I arrived a little bit before 8, to meet with her friends that had already saved space on the curb. Although the processions was not due to arrive for at least another 45 minutes, all of the front row spaces along the street were filled. We chatted as we waited, and when we caught a bit of breeze that held the sound of trumpets and drums, we knew the procession was about to arrive.
This event was incredibly difficult to photograph. Dimness, movement, oddly-colored street lighting, crowds, and the striking contrast between the black and white parts of the tunicas created havoc for the camera, which cannot follow as the human eye can. You can, however, still see all three pasos procesionales.