Monthly Archives: March 2013

Vía Crucis

Tuesday Isa and I were planning to go see the Cofradía de Jesús del Vía Crucis. Isa likes this procession because the image of Jesus is beautiful. Besides that, one of her friends was a cofrade in the procession, so, if we went early enough, we would be able to see him putting on his garb. The procession was supposed to start at 20.15, but unfortunately, the procession was cancelled because of rain. As the processions last for a couple of hours (at least) and there is no quick cover for the pasos, the processions will not happen if there is even a hint of rain. Sadly, this year, Semana Santa fell in March instead of in April, which means much more rain than usual. The procession of the Vía Crucis was not the only one to be cancelled.

There was another procession set to start at midnight, but we did not attend this one either. Instead, we were watching Spain play France. It was a very important game, as the week before Spain had tied Finland 1-1. If they did not win, Spain would have to go through a much more challenging route to qualify for the 2014 World Cup in Rio.

Spain 1-0 France! (con las cervezas)

Watching Spain play in Zamora is different than watching them play in Barcelona. For one, Zamora has much more pride in the national team of Spain than Catalunya does. For example, my most-Catalan friend did not even watch the game, as she prefers the Catalan national team. Part of this is because Madrid and Castilla y Leon (where Zamora is located) might be considered the parts of Spain the most “neutral.” Catalunya, the Basque Country, and Galicia in the north have very unique identities separate from Spain (Galicia less so than the other two). Andalucia in the south has a greater Islamic influence and they speak in a fashion that even some native Spaniards have trouble understanding.

We watched the game in an Irish Pub (really, Irish Pubs are everywhere). In Barcelona, the most common beer is Estrella Damm, a locally produced beer. In Zamora, however, the most common beers are Heineken and Cruzcampo. This means that when you order a caña (whatever is on tap), you get Estrella Damm in Barcelona and Heineken in Zamora. Besides that, if you order a clara in Barcelona, they serve you half beer/half lemon (which is Fanta de limon). In Zamora, you have to order caña con limon to get the same thing. A clara, instead, is half beer/half gaseosa, which is a bit like sprite: carbonated water with a citrus-y taste.The most common gaseosa in Spain is La Casera.

(L to R) Torta del Duero (Tosted bread, cheese from Zamora, strawberry reduction)
Hamburgesa de Buey (Buey is castrated bull)
Montadito de bacon, pimiento, y cebolla caramelizada (bacon, red pepper, caramelized onion)

We had a combination of cañas and cañas con limon. Isa’s friend José Isaac (or Isi), called me “La American Pie” because I finished my drink before he did. His favorite movies are the seven American Pie movies, and his goal is to one day attend a party like those in the movie. The game itself was interesting, but the best part was that Spain won 1-0. (You can read a reverse-order description of the game here.) Next we stopped at Afterwork La Parrilla, a bar for tapas y copas. We ordered some tapas and wine. Hamburgesa de buey, una torta del duero, montadito de bacon, pimiento, y cebolla carmalizada. This was in preparation for Vía Crucis.

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Cristo de la Buena Muerte

The Second Procession

After the first procession I saw, Isabel and I headed for a quick dinner with her friends. We went to a bar where we ate a bunch of tapas, and only paid five euro each person. The next procession was due to begin at 12:00 midnight, and only one of Isa’s friends was strong enough to brave it with us. This procession was to end at the Plaza de Santa Lucía, where the brothers would then sing. This is one of Isa’s favorite processions, and so far it has been my favorite as well.

We arrived a little bit after 11, and already the standing room in the plaza was becoming full. A few feet was left between some plastic yellow fences and the walls, leaving the rest of the space open for the procession. Even at 11, we were lucky to find a spot in the front line. We made our own line across the opening of a street. It turned out to be the best possible place to watch the entrance of the procession.

Hermandad Penitencial del Santísimo Cristo de la Buena Muerte

We knew we had a long, cold wait ahead of us, and had prepared by buying pipas (unshelled sunflower seeds) to snack on. It is a traditional way to pass the time while waiting during Semana Santa. The procession finally reached us at 1 am. With silence from the crowd, each brother entered quietly with his head down, wearing tan robes and sandals, and carrying a large candle. Some of the men walked barefoot, whereas those who carried Jesus wore black leather loafers or boots. Four or five photographers ran and crouched in front of us to photograph the procession as it ambled toward the plaza. All but one was shooed away to make space for their entrance, and he was the one who shot me a look of sympathy when the battery in my camera died. The entrance of the procession had just arrived and the singing had not yet begun! Such was my luck!

(Earlier in the night I had seen that I had three out of four bars of battery, and it was not until my camera did the same thing a few nights later that I realized my battery might not have been dead after all. If I had fiddled with it a bit more, I might have been able to bring it back to life.)

The brothers carried in a image of Jesus on the cross, tilted at about a thirty degree angle. It was made in 1585 and is attributed to Ruiz de Zumeta. While the other cofrades lined the plaza, the men carried Jesus to the center, where fifteen men began to sing their haunting song, “Jerusalem, Jerusalem.” (You can see a youtube video here). When the finished, a torrent of black-clothed photographers was unleashed to move about the plaza. The brothers then continued with another song, and then sang as the entire procession left the plaza.

It was late, it was cold, but it sure was worth it!

Links:

Cristo de la Buena Muerte on Wikipedia

Jerusalem on Youtube

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Semana Santa in Zamora: The First Procession

Introduction

I was invited by my friend Isabel to visit her in her hometown of Zamora for Semana Santa (Holy Week). Zamora, in Castilla y Leon, along with Seville and Málaga in Andalusia, are the towns most famous for their celebrations during this week. In Zamora, there are seventeen processions, beginning with the first one of this year on Thursday, March 21st at 20.00 and ending with the last one at 9.00 on Easter Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección), March 21st. There are two to three processions per day, and each one is enacted by a different Cofradía (brotherhood or guild) and takes a different route through the city. The earliest of these Cofradías (San Cipriano) was founded in the fifteenth century.

These processions are attended by masses of people lining the streets along the route and are covered extensively on TV. Thousands of people come to Zamora just for Semana Santa. I have heard both Isabel and her friends say that this is their favorite week of the year here in Zamora, as many of their friends come home and everyone parties during the entire week.

The processions usually consist of the cofradías wearing their respective capirotes (hoods) and tunicas, musicians, standard bearers, and of course the “floats” themselves, called pasos procesionales, which are actually carried on the shoulders of the costaleros.

While these outfits look like something from the KKK to anyone growing up in the US, they are nothing of the sort here. The cofrades were originally worn while doing penitence to hide the faces of those who survived the Black Death. Here the hoods are linked to devotion, service, and thanks to God.

When not in use, most of the pasos are stored in the Museo de la Semana Santa.

Jesús en su Tercera Caída

The first procession, Hermandad de Jesús en su Tercera Caída, began at 8:30 on Monday. Isa and I arrived a little bit before 8, to meet with her friends that had already saved space on the curb. Although the processions was not due to arrive for at least another 45 minutes, all of the front row spaces along the street were filled. We chatted as we waited, and when we caught a bit of breeze that held the sound of trumpets and drums, we knew the procession was about to arrive.

This event was incredibly difficult to photograph. Dimness, movement, oddly-colored street lighting, crowds, and the striking contrast between the black and white parts of the tunicas created havoc for the camera, which cannot follow as the human eye can. You can, however, still see all three pasos procesionales.

There’s Photos!

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Fricandó

Here is a the recipe for a dish I recently learned to make. This recipe comes from a book of twenty recipes in Catalan that my friend received when he took a cooking class in Barcelona. This is one of his favorite dishes, and I helped him make it for his wife (I got to eat some too of course!). With the two of us, it took two hours. It is similar to what we call “Fricassee” in English.

FRICANDÓ

(This is an ancient French dish that is also popular in Catalonia).

Ingredients

600 g veal (or pork), thinly sliced

200 g onions, diced

200 g ripe tomatoes, grated

20 g Scotch Bonnet mushrooms, dried (“marasmius oreades”)

50 cc “vino rancio” (a sweet, old wine)*

2 or 3 artichoke hearts

1 lemon

Ingredients for the sauce

2 cloves of garlic

20 g toasted almonds

Parsley

..===oOo===..

Salt the meat and flour it, and then fry it in a pan with olive oil until brown.

In a pot, using the leftover oil, fry the onions. When the onions begin to brown, add the wine. Add the tomato three minutes later. Let this cook for 10 minutes. Be careful that the tomato doesn’t stick; if it does, add a bit of water.

Place the mushrooms with water in another pot. When the water is boiling, turn off the heat. Strain the mushrooms and add them to the onion and tomato. Stir occasionally for 3 minutes.

Add the meat. Then pour the water leftover from the mushrooms into the pot until the meat is covered. Cook covered for 30 minutes on low heat.

Clean the artichokes and cut them in four or six pieces. Rub them with lemon to avoid discoloration. Boil them, drain the water, and then bread and fry them.

Grind the garlic, almond, and  parsley in a mortar. Five minutes before the end, add this and the artichokes to the pot.

I hope you like it!

*Vino Rancio is a wine typical of Catalunya. Here is a decent discussion of what this wine is. They say that Vino Rancio is “a style of wine made by purposefully oxidizing or maderizing it by placing small barrels of wine in the hot summer sun. This procedure gives the wine a tawny color and a rich, unique flavor. Rancio wines are usually either naturally very high in alcohol or fortified. The results are similar to madeira, tawny port, or marsala.”

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Sant Martí to Poble Nou II

This is a continuation of this post.

I was biking from the district of Sant Martí, where I am staying, to the Rambla of Poble Nou.

Before crossing Av. Diagonal, there is the the Parc del Centre del Poblenou. I’ve driven by it numerous times on my way to visit my friends, but I had never had the chance to enter until now. There are three different sections separated by roads. I first entered the eastern-most park. This one is the smallest of the three, and feels much more enclosed and separated from the rest of the world. The middle is full of trees that have small, hard, black and red berries. It was only after an older man with a dog came up to me to tell me about the trees that I found out they are actually a form of pepper. I appreciated the information, although it is always uncomfortable when a stranger approaches you in such a solitary place as this.

Along with the trees, there were installations of the artistic kind, and chairs which were also designed with art in mind.

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Sant Martí to Poblenou I

This post touches on two of my favorite things about Barcelona. I love that design is incorporated into every aspect of the city, and I am also enchanted by all of the old, abandoned, leftover buildings that can be found around the city. There is a distinctive mix of old and new.

I took a bike ride from the apartment to the Rambla of Poblenou, to a great new coffee shop, called Papas and the Mamas, which opened in November. I was introduced to the cafe/restaurant through my friend, who had planned to host her daughter’s birthday party there. The cafe is light, airy, and new, serves organic food, and has free wifi (which is the most important part, of course!). During the day, it is a quiet place to relax, but in the evenings it becomes a lively place full of parents and their children, as the location was designed with children in mind.

Poblenou (Pueblo Nuevo in Spanish, or “New Town” in English [real clever!])  is a district of Barcelona that has only started to be redeveloped in the past 20 years, starting when the Vila Olimpica was redone for the ’92 Olympics. (You can look at plans here.) It is an up and coming part of the city, filled with young people, artists, and the like. It is located near the beach, and the streets are wide allowing easy bike access. There are still factories and other brick industrial buildings, but if you move a block or two in one direction or another, you will encounter new residential developments. Here is the most fascinating mix of old and new in Barcelona.

The beginning of my bike ride was through a section of old apartment complexes and empty lots.

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This is the frontage of some old houses, which have now been destroyed. The windows and doors have been bricked up, and are now used as a wall to enclose the empty land behind it.

A few blocks later, there is a burnt-out building. I had been told that it had caught fire and that some homeless people who had been living there died. However, upon further research, we could not find the relevant news, although we did read about other fatal fires in the area. It is not unusual to find people squatting in empty buildings in this part of the city. But it is here that the balance is even, and neither the new residents nor the squatters are most prevalent element. Poble Nou is still in a state of flux.

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A block away from this building, is the start of a fantastic park next to Avinguda Diagonal, the main road that runs across the city diagonally (oddly enough). From here, you can see the shell of a new building near the Rambla.

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In the photo above, the bushes that you see are walls of various parks. I’ll cover that in the next post.

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Photography and Prostitutes (but not photography of prostitutes)

Along the Carretera de Collblanc, in an area of L’Hospitalet not too far from Camp Nou, lies both an electrical substation and abandoned land with buildings. There is nowhere to park along the Carretera, but running almost parallel to it is Avinguda d’Manuel Azaña. This road has construction and empty land and is therefore used for the ever-elusive parking. I became acquainted with it not because I was searching for parking, but because I was searching for new and faster ways to get home. In the daytime this road is harmless. At night, it is a place where prostitutes solicit their wares. (It doesn’t seem the place for your higher-end prostitute. Too dark.)

My main goal was to take a photo of this building, from Carretera de Collblanc, but my parking spot on Av d’Manuel Azaña allowed me to get a view of the other side.

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There’s a hole in the fence on this side that allows you to take a well-worn path down to some make-shift parking off of Collblanc.

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Having taken the shortcut, I was then able to snap a photo of the original side that had sparked my interest.

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And take a shot of the impressive gate.

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Down the road is this building:

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Avinguda d’Albert Bastardas

Yesterday’s adventure took me to some of my old haunts. I went looking to take pictures of things I had seen in my commute but had never taken the time to come back to when I could actually stop for the photos.

 

Last year, on my drive home from practice, I often took a road running behind the Real Polo Club de Barcelona. It was appealing for both it’s lack of stoplights and for its interesting scenery:

 

Aigües de Barcelona is the company in charge of water distribution in Barcelona and other nearby municipalities. In the background you can see the Hotel Rey Juan Carlos, where the visiting footballers stay.

Aigües de Barcelona is the company in charge of water distribution in Barcelona and other nearby municipalities. In the background you can see the Hotel Rey Juan Carlos, where the visiting footballers stay.

This road continues and runs below the Carretera de Collblanc, where you can pass through a tunnel made of stone but now mostly covered in modern metal and concrete.

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Old bridge/new bridge

On the way down to the bridge, after the Aigües, is a volleyball court, here used to play a football-volleyball hybrid.

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Futvolei

And from below, you can see some of the new construction along the Carretera de Collblanc:

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Spikes

 

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