Posts Tagged With: food

Incisa in Val D’Arno: Part VI, Excursion to Arezzo

After riding on Sunday (read about it here), I needed something to eat. As it was Sunday, the only supermarket open was the huge Coop, and it had already closed. I decided to drive around and see what else was available. I ended up deciding to continue all the way to Arezzo. Now, I studied abroad in Florence for a month in 2007, and I took a few trips outside the city one weekend. Two friends and I went to two smaller towns on Saturday and two more on Sunday. I could tell you three of the four towns we went to (Pistoia, Cortona, Lucca) and could remember two well enough (Lucca because I went a second time two years later and Pistoia for god knows what reason). But I couldn’t say which of the other memories I had was of Cortona, or even what city the last memory was of.

Well, I quickly found out that the last city I had visited was Arezzo. So, here I was again, this time arriving by car.

The last time I had been to Arezzo I was taking a black and white film photography class. I had gone on a trip to Barcelona and lost my digital camera on the way back (losing, in the process, photos of a double rainbow over the Ponte Vecchio. Oh the agony!). Because of this, all the photos I took during these trips were on film in black and white. I was also doing everything on manual. Unfortunately, most of my photos did not turn out well. Of course, I felt that my photography skills must have been seriously lacking. Only later did I find out my lens was broken…

It was my lucky day! To arrive in a city I had been to before but this time armed with a much better camera and improved photography skills.

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Categories: Florence, Italy, Photography, Travel | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Incisa in Val D’Arno: Part II, The Hotel

Oddly enough, I’ve never rented a car while traveling. Of course, I’ve had to rent a car when visiting San Francisco or other places like that, but I wouldn’t consider that traveling. Not only am I just visiting a place I’ve already been, it is still in the country.

A little over a year ago I went to Santiago de Compostela, and what I really wanted to do was get in the Atlantic Ocean. However, there was no way I could visit using public transportation and still make it back in time for my evening flight. The hotel suggested that I rent a car, but for some reason I felt it was out of the question. For my own unknown motives, I didn’t get to do something I wanted to do. I vowed next time I was going to rent a car.

For all that I’ve travelled in Italy, I was nervous to rent a car. I’ve driven in Spain, which isn’t all that different, and I’ve always been excited to try my hand at driving with the crazy Italians. What was there to stop me? It sounded like fun. So, I did it. (Read about the car here).

It took me way longer than it should have to get to the hotel. Neither the GPS nor my cell phone was working properly, and I couldn’t figure out exactly where the hotel was. Eventually, I got the electronics working, and, as it turns out, if I had gone 50m more from where I originally turned around, I would have found the hotel. Ah well.

The hotel’s name is Tenuta Il Burchio. It spreads across a one-lane-but-made-for-two-cars street. On one side is the hotel, a white-washed building with wooden window frames and an old tile roof. The other side has an extra building (one room, sided on three sides by glass windows) surrounded by a brick patio and tables. This is where breakfast is held. Behind it, reached by walking along some pine trees, is the 15m pool. Behind the hedges bordering the pool is the stable. That, however, is a separate property from the hotel.

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Vía Crucis

Tuesday Isa and I were planning to go see the Cofradía de Jesús del Vía Crucis. Isa likes this procession because the image of Jesus is beautiful. Besides that, one of her friends was a cofrade in the procession, so, if we went early enough, we would be able to see him putting on his garb. The procession was supposed to start at 20.15, but unfortunately, the procession was cancelled because of rain. As the processions last for a couple of hours (at least) and there is no quick cover for the pasos, the processions will not happen if there is even a hint of rain. Sadly, this year, Semana Santa fell in March instead of in April, which means much more rain than usual. The procession of the Vía Crucis was not the only one to be cancelled.

There was another procession set to start at midnight, but we did not attend this one either. Instead, we were watching Spain play France. It was a very important game, as the week before Spain had tied Finland 1-1. If they did not win, Spain would have to go through a much more challenging route to qualify for the 2014 World Cup in Rio.

Spain 1-0 France! (con las cervezas)

Watching Spain play in Zamora is different than watching them play in Barcelona. For one, Zamora has much more pride in the national team of Spain than Catalunya does. For example, my most-Catalan friend did not even watch the game, as she prefers the Catalan national team. Part of this is because Madrid and Castilla y Leon (where Zamora is located) might be considered the parts of Spain the most “neutral.” Catalunya, the Basque Country, and Galicia in the north have very unique identities separate from Spain (Galicia less so than the other two). Andalucia in the south has a greater Islamic influence and they speak in a fashion that even some native Spaniards have trouble understanding.

We watched the game in an Irish Pub (really, Irish Pubs are everywhere). In Barcelona, the most common beer is Estrella Damm, a locally produced beer. In Zamora, however, the most common beers are Heineken and Cruzcampo. This means that when you order a caña (whatever is on tap), you get Estrella Damm in Barcelona and Heineken in Zamora. Besides that, if you order a clara in Barcelona, they serve you half beer/half lemon (which is Fanta de limon). In Zamora, you have to order caña con limon to get the same thing. A clara, instead, is half beer/half gaseosa, which is a bit like sprite: carbonated water with a citrus-y taste.The most common gaseosa in Spain is La Casera.

(L to R) Torta del Duero (Tosted bread, cheese from Zamora, strawberry reduction)
Hamburgesa de Buey (Buey is castrated bull)
Montadito de bacon, pimiento, y cebolla caramelizada (bacon, red pepper, caramelized onion)

We had a combination of cañas and cañas con limon. Isa’s friend José Isaac (or Isi), called me “La American Pie” because I finished my drink before he did. His favorite movies are the seven American Pie movies, and his goal is to one day attend a party like those in the movie. The game itself was interesting, but the best part was that Spain won 1-0. (You can read a reverse-order description of the game here.) Next we stopped at Afterwork La Parrilla, a bar for tapas y copas. We ordered some tapas and wine. Hamburgesa de buey, una torta del duero, montadito de bacon, pimiento, y cebolla carmalizada. This was in preparation for Vía Crucis.

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Categories: Culture, Holiday, Spain, Travel | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Fricandó

Here is a the recipe for a dish I recently learned to make. This recipe comes from a book of twenty recipes in Catalan that my friend received when he took a cooking class in Barcelona. This is one of his favorite dishes, and I helped him make it for his wife (I got to eat some too of course!). With the two of us, it took two hours. It is similar to what we call “Fricassee” in English.

FRICANDÓ

(This is an ancient French dish that is also popular in Catalonia).

Ingredients

600 g veal (or pork), thinly sliced

200 g onions, diced

200 g ripe tomatoes, grated

20 g Scotch Bonnet mushrooms, dried (“marasmius oreades”)

50 cc “vino rancio” (a sweet, old wine)*

2 or 3 artichoke hearts

1 lemon

Ingredients for the sauce

2 cloves of garlic

20 g toasted almonds

Parsley

..===oOo===..

Salt the meat and flour it, and then fry it in a pan with olive oil until brown.

In a pot, using the leftover oil, fry the onions. When the onions begin to brown, add the wine. Add the tomato three minutes later. Let this cook for 10 minutes. Be careful that the tomato doesn’t stick; if it does, add a bit of water.

Place the mushrooms with water in another pot. When the water is boiling, turn off the heat. Strain the mushrooms and add them to the onion and tomato. Stir occasionally for 3 minutes.

Add the meat. Then pour the water leftover from the mushrooms into the pot until the meat is covered. Cook covered for 30 minutes on low heat.

Clean the artichokes and cut them in four or six pieces. Rub them with lemon to avoid discoloration. Boil them, drain the water, and then bread and fry them.

Grind the garlic, almond, and  parsley in a mortar. Five minutes before the end, add this and the artichokes to the pot.

I hope you like it!

*Vino Rancio is a wine typical of Catalunya. Here is a decent discussion of what this wine is. They say that Vino Rancio is “a style of wine made by purposefully oxidizing or maderizing it by placing small barrels of wine in the hot summer sun. This procedure gives the wine a tawny color and a rich, unique flavor. Rancio wines are usually either naturally very high in alcohol or fortified. The results are similar to madeira, tawny port, or marsala.”

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